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Longtime Love
EnlargeCredit: Dylan Ho The evening is well underway, and I'm hungry in the incredible food city of Los Angeles, but rather than eating in the digs of some talented chef, I'm sitting in a touristy...
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World's Most Elegant Nightcap
EnlargeCredit: Michael Kraus After dinner, there's nothing I like better than a digestif—or two—to lull me into sleepiness. Tonight, I've arrived post-repast at Lebensstern, located in silent film star...
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Off the Clock
EnlargeCredit: Todd Coleman The Tokyo that many visitors seek out is all glitz, but I adore places like Uosan Sakaba, a terrific izakaya, or eating pub, in Shitamachi, the Low City. Historically home...
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Shifting Gears
EnlargeCredit: Aya Brackett Most chefs I know don't have much food at home: We're always in our restaurant kitchens. But I keep a few items on hand for nights when I'm so slammed at work that I forget...
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Lady Baltimore Eats
EnlargeCredit: Christopher Hirsheimer"Noooooo, don't do it like that!" my 72-year-old Aunt Eadie hisses, yanking my mallet away. "Don't crush it!" We're at Bo Brooks, a northeastern Baltimore crab...
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Sweet Spot
EnlargeCredit: Helen Rosner The evening is winding down at Centrál Kávéház, an opulent café. Now, beneath the chandeliers and high painted ceiling, a pair of tourists sip coffee and pore over a map,...
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The Endless Evening
EnlargeCredit: Eilon Paz My neighbors must think we're crazy. It's well past midnight and here we are, a bunch of middle-aged professionals, raising a ruckus in my kitchen. I've got pasta water...
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The Brew: The Malleable, Marvelous Michelada
EnlargeCredit: Aaron Lloyd Barr I’ve been into Bloody Marys for most of my adult life but somehow when it came to their less boozy, more refreshing cousin, the beer-based michelada, I was late to the...
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Nantucket, MA: White Elephant Village
I land at Boston’s Logan airport and transfer to a dramatically smaller, 36’ Cape Air Cessna 402 twin piston engine plane. I am one of 8 passengers, including the pilot. We effortlessly ascend into the...
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Babylonian Breakfast
EnlargeCredit: Ingalls Photography I first fell for the intricately seasoned dishes of Iraq more than a decade ago during my deployment there. I haven't been back since. So a few years ago in Dubai, a...
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One Good Find: Korovka Candies
Enlarge Before it became more common for boutique markets to carry international specialty foods, I had to wait for my Russian grandparents to visit to get my fix of korovka, Russian handmade milk...
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Eugene, Oregon: The Valley River Inn
You get a dose of late-mid-century fabulousness when you enter the Valley River Inn, the lodge-like hotel that's been welcoming guests in Eugene, Oregon since 1973. The lobby boasts an enormous,...
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Gai Hor Bai Toey (Thai Pandan-Wrapped Chicken)
SERVES 2–4Ingredients5 tbsp.grated palm sugar or light brown sugar½ tsp.ground white pepper¼ tsp.kosher salt4cloves garlic, peeled2 cilantro roots or 4 tender cilantro stems, chopped1(1") piece ginger,...
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Room with a View
EnlargeCredit: Helen RosnerIf you rise early enough in Los Angeles, you will often find a chill in the air and sometimes even a blanket of fog. At this hour at the Hotel Bel-Air, a smoky blue dawn...
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Rite of Spring
EnlargeCredit: David Hagerman As I walk along the cobblestone streets of Kars in northeastern Turkey today, snow can still be seen in the hills just outside the city. The sky is blue, and the cheerful...
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A Midsummer's Dream
EnlargeCredit: Felix Odell The soil on the Swedish island of Oland, off the mainland's southeastern coast in the Baltic Sea, has special powers. So says my gardener friend Asa Johanson, who lives here....
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Filmjölkslimpa (Seeded Buttermilk Bread)
MAKES 1 LOAFIngredientsUnsalted butter, for greasing2 cupswhole wheat flour, plus more for dusting2 cupsbuttermilk½ cupmolasses2 cupsrye flour½ cupsliced almonds⅓ cupflaxseed⅓...
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Knäckebröd med Frön (Seeded Crispbread)
SERVES 4–6Ingredients1¼ cupsfine cornmeal ½ cupsesame seeds½ cupsunflower seeds¼ cupcanola oil, plus more for greasing¼ cup flaxseed1 tbsp.kosher salt1 cupboiling waterHeat oven to 350°. Stir cornmeal,...
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Ostkaka med Färska Jordgubbar och Mynta (Almond Cheesecake with Macerated...
SERVES 8Ingredients¾ cup sugar6 cupsquartered strawberries½ cupminced mintUnsalted butter, for greasing¾ cupblanched almonds2¼ cupscottage cheese, drained overnight¾ cupheavy cream¾ cupmilk¼...
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Blades of Glory
EnlargeCredit: James Oseland When I was growing up in Singapore, pandan—a perennial grass with an intoxicating aroma—was everywhere. Its subtle perfume suffused so many of my favorite foods: birthday...
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