William Hereford
A traditional Armenian lunch at Edem Restaurant near the Areni-1 complex. Seating is at communal tables in a simple garden courtyard.
Must-Try Local Dish
Lahmajoun is a meat-topped flatbread also known as “Armenian pizza.” Try it at Mer Taghe (21/1 Tumanyan St., Yerevan) with a squirt of lemon and a glass of than, a minty-yogurt beverage similar to Turkish ayran.
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Best Wine Bars
In Vino and Wine Republic are located in central Yerevan. These casual, eat-in wine bars double as wine shops.
The Tourist Trap Worth Trying
Grab lunch at Edem Restaurant, which caters to visitors near the base of Areni-1 but still serves a classic Armenian spread.
How to Hack the Travel Route
Most flights to Zvartnots International Airport transfer through Moscow. Get a 24-hour visa before traveling, and spend a layover day in Russia to make the most of the long haul.
Best Traditional Dolma Purveyor
Head to the aptly named Dolmama at 10 Pushkin Street in Yerevan for the “dolmama” dolmas made with sirloin, rosemary, and chiles.
Stash This in Your Suitcase
Source a locally produced, hand-woven rug from the weekend Vernissage flea market in Yerevan. Aram Street at Hanrapetutyan Street.
Read This Before You Go
William Saroyan’s “Seventy Thousand Assyrians,” from the collection The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze is about flourishing and vanishing civilizations in the Caucasus and the realities of life in exile.
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